Dewott Pattern

As you can see from the pictures above and the title of this post, my latest pattern is dewott, the evolved form of oshawott. When I first saw the Unova starters, my first impression of oshawott was that he looked like a sad little clown. Once he evolved, I fell in love with dewott, and had a hard time of letting him evolve.

About a week ago I was in a crocheting mood, and was quite happy to discover that I already had all the yarn needed to make him, and here he is.

Also, his scallops (according to bulbapedia they’res scalchops, according to spell check they’re scallops) are detachable like how they’re described as being. However, they’re not that sharp and probably can’t inflict that much damage.

For the yarn I used Red Heart Super Saver for all but the nose. The white whiskers is just ‘White’, black is just ‘Black’, dark blue is ‘Blue’, the lighter blue is ‘Turqua’ and the tan is ‘Aran’. I didn’t have any pink felt for the nose, so I used Caron Simply Soft ‘Persimmon’, the same yarn I used for bellossom’s petals.

This time I went off of this dewott image from bulbapedia.

I have no issues with people using my pattern, as long as they don’t make a profit off the pattern, or leafeon. Also, please don’t copy the pattern when putting it on other websites, just paste the link to the original pattern. If you have any issues with the pattern, please let me know.

Head (light blue, stuff):

  1. Chain 6 in magic ring, sc in each (6)
  2. Rnd 2: 2 sc  in each sc (12)
  3. Rnd 3: sc in sc, 2 sc in sc (18)
  4. Rnd 4: sc in 2 sc, 2 sc in sc (24)
  5. Rnd 5: sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in sc (30)
  6. Rnd 6: sc in 4 sc, 2 sc in sc (36)
  7. Rnd 7-13: sc in each sc (36)
  8. Rnd 14: sc in 4 sc, dc over 2 sc (30)
  9. Rnd 15: sc in 3 sc, dc over 2 sc (24)

10. Rnd 16: sc in 2 sc, dc over 2 sc (18)

11. Rnd 17: sc in sc, dc over  2 sc (12)

12. Rnd 18: dc over 2 sc (6)

F/O

Body and legs (light blue, stuff):

  1. Chain 5 in magic ring, sc in each (5)
  2. Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc (10)
  3. Rnd 3-4: sc in each sc (10)
  4. Rnd 5: 2 sc in each sc (20)
  5. Rnd 6-11: sc in each sc (20)
  6. Rnd 12: sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in sc (25)
  7. Rnd 13-14: sc in each sc (25)
  8. Rnd 15: sc in 4 sc, 2 sc in sc (30)
  9. Rnd 16-21: sc in each sc (30)
  10. Rnd 22: sc in 2 sc, 2 sc in sc (40)
  11. Rnd 23-26: sc in each sc (40)

You are now going to begin the first leg.

12. Rnd 27: sc in next 12 sc, chain 3 (15)

13. Rnd 28: sc in each chain (15)

14. Rnd 29: sc in sc, dc over 2 sc (10)

15. Rnd 30-31: sc in each sc (10)

16. Rnd 32: dc over 2 sc (5)

Below is pictured how the body should look before starting the second leg.

17.  Finish off the first leg, and go down 8 sc from the beginning of the first leg (the beginning of the 12 sc) and join in to start the second leg.

Pictured below is the start of the second leg.

Repeat steps 12-16. Alternatively, chain 15 and repeat steps 13-16, and then attach leg to body.

Finish by closing up the gap in between the legs, after stuffing the body and the legs. The body should be able to stand up on it’s own, if not, try adding more stuffing in the legs to give it some weight, or take stuffing out if it was overstuffed.

Pictured below is the body finished with both legs.

F/O

Arms/fingers (start with light blue, make two):

  1. Chain 8 in magic ring, sc in each chain (8)
  2. Rnd 2-8: sc in each sc (8)
  3. Rnd 9: F/O blue, join black, sc in each sc (8)
  4. Rnd 10: sc in 2 sc, dc over 2 sc (6)
  5. Rnd 11: dc over 2 sc (3)

Now it’s time to do the fingers and to switch to the black

6. Chain 3, sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc (2)

7. Chain 4, sc in 2nd chain from hook, 2 sc (3)

8. Chain 3, sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc (2)

F/O

Feet (black, make 2):

  1. Chain 6 in magic ring, sc in each chain (6)
  2. Rnd 2-4: sc in each sc (6)
  3. Rnd 5: sc in 2 sc, 2 sc in sc (8)
  4. Rnd 6-7: sc in each sc (8)
  5. Rnd 8: sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in sc (10)
  6. Rnd 9-10: sc in each sc (10)
  7. Close up the foot by chaining across or sewing

F/O

Tail (black):

  1. Chain 7, sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in 5 sc, chain one and turn (6)
  2. Row 2-15: sc in each sc, chain one and turn (6)

F/O

Ears/Knobs (black, make 2):

  1. Chain 2 in magic ring, 2 sc in each chain (4)
  2. Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc (8)
  3. Rnd 3: sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in each sc (10)
  4. Rnd 4-5: sc in each sc (10)

F/O

For the shorts, refer to the picture below. The top is the short/pants part, the bottom left is the middle triangle, the bottom right is the large triangle.

Shorts/pants, main part (dark blue):

  1. Chain 6, sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in 4 sc, chain one and turn (5)
  2. Row 2: 2 sc in sc, sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in sc, chain one and turn (7)
  3. Row 3-19: sc in each sc, chain one and turn (7)
  4. Row 20: dc over 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, dc over 2 sc, chain one and turn (5)
  5. Row 21: sc in each sc, chain one and turn (5)
  6. Row 22: 2 sc in sc, sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in sc, chain one and turn (7)
  7. Row 23-39: sc in each sc, chain one and turn (7)
  8. Row 40: dc over 2 sc, sc in 3 sc, dc over 2 sc (5)

F/O

Shorts, Big triangle (dark blue, make 4):

  1. Chain 8, sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in next 6 sc, chain one and turn (7)
  2. Row 2: dc over 2 sc, sc in 5 sc, chain one and turn (6)
  3. Row 3: sc in 2 sc, dc over 2 sc, dc over 2 sc, chain one and turn (4)
  4. Row 4: dc over 2 sc, dc over 2 sc, chain one and turn (2)
  5. Row 5: dc over 2 sc (1)

F/O

Shorts, Middle Triangle (dark blue, make 2):

  1. Chain 7, sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in 5 chain, chain one and turn (6)
  2. Row 2: dc over 2 sc, sc in 2 sc, dc over 2 sc, chain one and turn (4)
  3. Row 3: dc over 2 sc, dc over 2 sc, chain one and turn (2)
  4. Row 4: dc over 2 sc (1)

F/O

Head Spike (light blue):

  1. Chain 10 in magic ring, sc in each chain (10)
  2. Rnd 2-3: dc over 2 sc, sc in 2 sc, 2 sc in sc, 2 sc in sc, sc in 2 sc, dc over 2 sc (10)
  3. Rnd 4: sc in each sc (10)
  4. Rnd 5: dc over 2 sc, sc in 2 sc, 2 sc in sc, 2 sc in sc, sc in 2 sc, dc over 2 sc (10)
  5. Rnd 6: sc in 4 sc, dc over 2 sc, dc over 2 sc, dc over 2 sc (7)
  6. Rnd 7-8: sc in each sc (7)
  7. Rnd 9: sc in sc, dc over 2 sc, sc in sc, dc over 2 sc, sc in sc (5)
  8. Rnd 10: sc in each sc (5)
  9. Rnd 11: dc over 2 sc, sc in sc, dc over 2 sc (3)

10. Rnd 12: sc in sc, dc over 2 sc (2)

F/O

Scallops, Middle (tan, make 2):

  1. Chain 10 in magic ring, sc in each chain (10)
  2. Rnd 2-4: sc in each sc (10)

F/O

Scallops, Bottom (tan, make 2):

  1. Chain 6 in magic ring, sc in each chain (6)
  2. Rnd 2: sc in 2 sc, 2 sc in sc (8)
  3. Rnd 3: sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in sc (10)

F/O

Scallops, End (tan, make 4):

  1. Chain 4 in magic ring, sc in each chain (4)
  2. Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc (8)
  3. Rnd 3: sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in sc (10)
  4. Rnd 4: sc in each sc (10)

F/O

Whiskers (white, make 2):

  1. Chain 6, sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in 4 chain (5)
  2. Once done with the 5, chain 9, sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in 7 chain (8)

F/O

Nose (pink):

  1. Chain 3 in magic ring, 2 sc in each chain (6)

F/O

Final Assembly:

Attach head to the top of the body, arms to the body, and legs to the body as shown at the beginning of the post. Attach the spike and ears to the head as well.

With that done, attach the tail to the back as shown below. The tail goes under the shorts, so it’s important to attach it first, and I only attached it by the first row of the tail so it could still move freely.

Now it’s time for the shorts. The shorts go under the arms, and the two end should meet up in either the middle of the front of the body or the back, depending on where you want it. With that done, it’s time to attach the triangles. Start with the small end of the large triangle at the seam where you attached the two sides together. The big end of it should be close to where the legs begin. Then attach the middle triangle, then the big end of the large triangle, small end of the large triangle, middle triangle, and large end of the large triangle. The triangles should go all the way around and be rather symmetrical in their positioning.

Once that’s done, it’s time for the face. You can choose to do the whiskers and nose as I did them, or use felt. Then there’s the eyes, eyebrows, and small little frown that somehow looks super cute.

Okay, now time for the scallops, or scalchops, depending on how you view it. I used black yarn to attach the two ends to the middle, giving the impression of ridges. It took forever to get them how I wanted, and the result was they look a lot worse than they should. So attach the ends to the middle, and the bottom to the bottom of the middle.

Depending on whether or not you want to detach them, you can either completely attach them to the shorts, or just attach some string on the back so you can tie/untie them on/off and around the hands. Velcro is another option.

Below is the back of mine with the string. I realize the picture is rather bright, but it’s still better than being super dark.

And that’s it! Let me know if you have any issues with the pattern, and I hope any and all dewotts turn out well.

Sun Stone Pattern

This is the pattern for the Sun Stone that is seen with my Oddish/Bellossom which can be found here.

There’s no definite design for a Sun Stone. I had a hard time finding an actual size let alone a good reference picture. In the end I went off of the icon that appears from the game, and a picture from the anime by combining them together. If you feel very creative, you can add more spikes, change the sizes, make it more lumpy looking.  Or you can be lazy like me and keep it as simple as possible. Your choice.

The yarn I used was Red Heart Super Saver’s ‘Carrot’.

I have no issues with people using my pattern, as long as they don’t make a profit off the pattern, or leafeon. Also, please don’t copy the pattern when putting it on other websites, just paste the link to the original pattern.

Ball:

  1. Chain 4 in magic ring (4)
  2. Round 2: 2 sc in each chain (8)
  3. Round 3: 2 sc in each chain (16)
  4. Round 4: sc in sc, 2 sc in sc (24)
  5. Round: sc in 2 sc, 2 sc in sc (32)
  6. Round 6-14: sc in each sc (32)
  7. Round 15: sc in 2 sc, dc over (24)
  8. Round 16: sc in sc, dc over (16)
  9. Round 17: dc over (8)
  10. Round 18: dc over (4)

F/O

Spikes (make 6, or more if you want):

  1. Chain 2 in magic ring (2)
  2. Round 2: 2 sc in chain (4)
  3. Round 3: 2 sc in each sc (8)
  4. Round 4-6: sc in each sc (8)
  5. Round 7: sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in sc (10)
  6. Round 8: sc in each sc (10)

F/O

Nubs (make 2):

  1. Chain 4 in magic ring (4)
  2. Round 2: 2 sc in each chain (8)
  3. Round 3: sc in 3 sc, 2 sc in ch (10)
  4. Round 4-6: sc in each sc (10)

F/O

Final Assembly: Attach the nubs on either side of the ball. Then attach the spikes as shown.

Large Piplup Pattern

Piplup should end up being 12” tall. As for yarn, I used Red Heart Super Saver with a size G hook,

but feel free to use what you want, as long as the stitches are constant. The light blue is called ‘Aruba Sea’, and the darker blue, ‘Blue’. I also used a basic white yarn, and the feet were yellow yarn leftovers that I know longer know the actual name of.

I have no issues with people using my pattern, as long as they don’t make a profit off the pattern, or piplup. Also, please don’t copy the pattern when putting it on other websites, just paste the link to the original pattern.

Thanks, and have fun crocheting a piplup!

Also if possible, please let me know how the pattern works out or if there are any issues with it.

Head (dark blue, stuff):

  1. Chain 8 in magic ring (8)
  2. Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc (16)
  3. Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (24)
  4. Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (32)
  5. Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (40)
  6. Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (48)
  7. Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc (56)
  8. Rnd 8-27: sc in each sc (56)
  9. Rnd 28: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc (48)
  10. Rnd 29: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc (40)
  11. Rnd 30: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (32)
  12. Rnd 31: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc (24)
  13. Rnd 32: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc (16)
  14. Rnd 33: dec over in next 2 sc (8)

F/O

Body (light blue, stuff):

  1. Chain 8 in magic ring (8)
  2. Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc (16)
  3. Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (24)
  4. Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (32)
  5. Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (40)
  6. Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (48)
  7. Rnd 7-21: sc in each sc (48)
  8. Rnd 22: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc (40)
  9. Rnd 23: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc (32)
  10. Rnd 24: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc (24)
  11. Rnd 25: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc (16)
  12. Rnd 26: dec over in next 2 sc (8)

F/O

Mask (white):

  1. Chain 25, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 23, turn (24)
  2. Row 2: 2 sc in next ch, sc in next 22, 2 sc in last ch, turn (26)
  3. Row 3: 2 sc in next ch, sc in next 24, 2 sc in last ch, turn (28)
  4. Row 4: sc in each sc, turn (28)
  5. Row 5: 2 sc in next ch, sc in next 26, 2 sc in last ch, turn (30)
  6. Row 6: sc in each sc, turn (30)
  7. Row 7: 2 sc in next ch, sc in next 28, 2 sc in last ch, turn (32)
  8. Row 8: sc in each sc, turn (32)
  9. Row 9: 2c in next ch, sc in next 30, 2 sc in last ch, turn (34)
  10. Row 10: sc in each sc, turn (34)
  11. Row 11: 2 sc in next ch, sc in next 32, 2 sc in last ch, turn (36)
  12. Row 12: 2 sc in next ch, sc in next 17, turn (19)
  13. Row 13: sc in each sc, turn (19)
  14. Row 14: 2 sc in next ch, sc in next 18, turn (20)
  15. Row 15: dec over next 2 ch, sc in next 18, turn (19)
  16. Row 16: 2 sc in next ch, sc in next 18, turn (20)
  17. Row 17: dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 18, turn (19)
  18. Row 18: dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 17, turn (18)
  19. Row 19: dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 14, dec over last 2 sc, turn (16)
  20. Row 20: dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 12, dec over last 2 sc, turn (14)
  21. Row 21: dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 10, dec over last 2 sc, turn (12)
  22. Row 22: dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 8, dec over last 2 sc, turn (10)
  23. Row 23: dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 6, dec over last 2 sc, turn (8)
  24. Row 24: dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 4, dec over last 2 sc, turn (6)
  25. Row 25: dec over next 2 sc, sc in next 2, dec over last 2 sc, turn (4)

F/O

Join unworked side of Row 11, repeat steps 12-25

F/O

Beak (yellow):

  1. Chain 8, hdec in each ch (8)
  2. Rnd 2: dec over first two hdc, hdc in next 4 hdc, dec over last 2 hdc (6)
  3. Rnd 3: dec over first two hdc, hdc in next 2 hdc, dec over last 2 hdc (4)

F/O

Crown (light blue):

  1. Chain 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next two, turn (3)
  2. Row 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn (5)
  3. Row 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn (7)
  4. Row 4: sc in each sc, turn (7)
  5. 1st point: Ch 4, sl in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch
  6. 2nd point: Ch 7, sl in 3rd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch skipping over 2 ch from Row 4 (you’ll be joining back up with a sc in the 5th sc out of the 7 from Row 4)
  7. 3rd point: Ch 4, sl in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch

F/O

Wings (light blue, make 2, not stuffed):

  1. Chain 6 in magic ring
  2. 2 sc in first ch, sc in next 2 sc (8)
  3. Rnd 3: sc in each sc (8)
  4. Rnd 4: 2 sc in sc, sc in next 3 sc (10)
  5. Rnd 5: sc in each sc (10)
  6. Rnd 6: 2 sc in sc, sc in next 4 sc (12)
  7. Rnd 7: sc in each sc (12)
  8. Rnd 8: 2 sc in sc, sc in next 5 sc (14)
  9. Rnd 9: sc in each sc (14)
  10. Rnd 10: 2 sc in sc, sc in next 6 sc (16)
  11. Rnd 11: sc in each sc (16)
  12. Rnd 12: 2 sc in sc, sc in next 7 sc (18)
  13. Rnd 13-14: sc in each sc (18)
  14. Rnd 15: dec over two sc, sc in next 7 sc (16)
  15. Rnd 16: sc in each sc (16)
  16. Rnd 17:  dec over two sc, sc in next 6 sc (14)
  17. Rnd 18-19: sc in each sc (14)
  18. Rnd 20: dec over two sc, sc in next 5 sc (12)
  19. Rnd 21-22: sc in each sc (12)
  20. Rnd 23: dec over two sc (6)
  21. Rnd 24: dec over two sc (3)
  22. Rnd 25: dec over (2)

F/O

Cape (dark blue):

  1. Chain 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 7, turn (8)
  2. Row 2: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6, 2 sc in last sc, turn (10)
  3. Row 3: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8, 2 sc in last sc¸turn (12)
  4. Row 4: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10, 2 sc in last sc¸turn (14)
  5. Rows 5-10 sc in each sc, turn (14)
  6. Row 11: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12, 2 sc in last sc, turn (16)
  7. Rows 12-26: sc in eac sc, turn (16)

F/O

Optional: Slip stitch around the edge for a border

Big Feather (dark blue):

  1. Chain 3 in magic ring, 2 sc in each ch (6)
  2. Rnd 2:  Ch 2, dec in each sc (6)
  3. Rnd 3-4: sc in each dec (6)

F/O

Little Feather (dark blue):

  1. Chain four in magic ring, sc in each ch (4)
  2. Rnd 2: Ch 2, dec in each sc (4)
  3. Rnd 3: sc in each dec (4)

F/O

Buttons (white, make 2):

  1. Chain 4 in magic ring, 2 sc in ch, sc in next ch (6)
  2. Rnd 2: 2 sc in sc, sc in next 2 sc (8)
  3. Rnd 3: 2 sc in sc, sc in next 4 sc (6)

F/O

(please note Rnd 3 isn’t a completed round.  When completed, it looked a bit too big, so I reduced the round in half to make it look better.  Feel free to adjust it if you need to)

Front Circles (dark blue, make 2):

  1. Chain 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2, turn (3)
  2. Row 2: dec in next sc, sc in next sc, dec in last sc, turn (5)
  3. Row 3: sc in each sc, turn (5)
  4. Row 4: dec in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, dec in last sc, turn (7)
  5. Row 5: sc in each sc, turn (7)
  6. Row 6: dec in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, dec in last sc, turn (9)
  7. Row 7-12: sc in each sc, turn (9)

F/O

Optional: Slip stitch around the edges for a border

Feet (yellow, make 2, lightly stuff):

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring, 2 sc in each sc (12)
  2. Rnd 2: sc in each sc (12)
  3. Rnd 3: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (16)
  4. Rnd 4-10: sc in each sc (16)
  5. Rnd 11: dec over first 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc (12)
  6. Rnd 12: dec over in first 2 sc, sc in next sc (8)
  7. Rnd 13: sc in each sc (8)
  8. Rnd 14: flatten, slip stitch through opposing sc

F/O

Optional: add 2 strands of black to the feet to make toes.

Assembly:

Cape:

Attach the two front circles to the top of the cape, which is where you should have ended.  I had the circles overlap with a sc from each.  To attach I used a slip stitch since it goes under the head and won’t be seen.  Then, attach the big feather on the bottom back of the cape, with the little feather slightly above it. There should be a gap between where the circles and cape meet.  This is where the wings will be underneath, so please keep that in mind when you start attaching to the body.

Head:

For the head, attach the mask, then the nose, and then the crown.  I’d also recommend getting all three positioned how you want them, before permanently attaching anything.  Using black and white felt for the eyes, attach to the mask.  I didn’t use a certain size.  Instead I started off big and slowly trimmed the eyes down until they looked right on the face. The black ended up being about an inch wide, and two inches long.  The white part ended up being about half an inch wide, and an inch long. Finally, attach the cape/circles combo to the bottom of the head, accounting for the slight gap between the cape/circle which should be onto of the wings.

Body:

First attach the wings to the body how you want them.  Then attach the head with the cape/circles combo on top. The head is rather big, so make sure it is attached securely to the body. Also, remember the gap in between should be on top of the wings. Once done, attach the feet to the bottom of the body.  Piplup should be able to stand on the feet without any support. Finally add the white buttons to the front of the body.